8 Responses to “Why Is My Pool Pump Not Working?” (2023)

8 Responses to “Why Is My Pool Pump Not Working?” (1)

8 Responses to “Why Is My Pool Pump Not Working?”

September 11, 2014 Mateusz Simmons

As pool technicians, we hear these words every day:

"My pump is on, but there is no water flowing."

“Why is there water leaking under the pump?

"Why is my pump losing heat?"

And the classic, albeit obscure, "My pump isn't working, what's going on with it?"All of this and much more indicates a pool pump failure, but the source of the failure is different. The key to diagnosing a pump is understanding the function of its parts and what happens when a specific part fails. By knowing what to look for, as a homeowner, you can identify and fix the problem yourself, saving money. Or, if you don't feel like doing the work yourself, you can explain the problem to a pool technician so he can fix the pump. Most importantly, knowing your pump keeps you from being pressured into buying unnecessary Poolman parts.

We've reviewed the 8 most commonly replaced pool pump parts with an explanation of how each part works and symptoms of a potential problem.

1.) Motor


  • Squeaking or squeaking is a sign of bearings damaged by age or rust. Damaged bearings are also a sign of a shaft seal leak.
  • Loud Noise - If the shaft is rotating, the capacitor is probably damaged. If the shaft won't turn, the bearings have frozen and jammed the shaft.
  • Inverted Circuit Breaker - A deep inner motor has failed and requires motor replacement or rebuild.
  • Silence - the motor shaft is frozen and you get a new 30-pound paperweight. Engine regeneration doesn't stand a chance, the only way is to replace it.

The pump motor is the heart of your pool. In short, if it's not pumping, you're going to collapse. In general, the service life of motors is 3 to 5 years. Engine life can vary greatly depending on the conditions under which it is used. An engine exposed to summer sun, spring rain, and early fall is likely to burn out faster than a protected engine. If you are concerned about weather effects, we suggest usinguniversal engine coverto protect your investment.

Adjustment:How to replace a pool pump motor,How to connect a pool pump,

2.) Sealing plate


  • Visible wear, i.e. cracks

The gasket plate is the connection point between the motor and the pump casing. Damage to the gasket plate is usually caused by overtightening the motor or housing bolts. Overtightening will crack the structure and eventually leak.

Adjustment: Replace sealing plate

3.) gaskets and seals

When someone claims to see wet cement in a pump washer, it's usually because of a damaged seal, shaft seal or O-ring. These rubber parts seal the pump connections, making it watertight. Each seal failure will have a different effect on the pump. If the pump requires multiple seals to be replaced, we suggest using a seal and o-ring kit (SKY) If possible. We also have assembly instructions for the gasket set:How to use the Tune up / GO-KIT

shaft seal


  • Water drips from engine openings
  • noisy bearings
  • The rest of the engine frame
  • White swirl in front of engine

Arguably the most important and vulnerable of the range, this $12-$20 piece is the last line of defense protecting the $200 electric motor. And I won't say it, but water and electric motors don't work very well. The seal consists of two sides: a white ceramic ring covered with a rubber cap and a spring-loaded side with a carbon ring. If the shaft seal fails, water will enter the crankcase. This small leak will start the corrosion process of bearings, copper windings or electrical components. We remind you that this gasket must always be replaced when replacing the engine.

Adjustment:How to replace a pool motor shaft seal

packing for home


  • Mokra podkladka pomposo
  • Leakage occurs at the gasket plate and housing seam

The larger of the seals acts as a seal between the seal plate and the pump body. Diagnosing a damaged crankcase gasket is easy because of its location. If water leaks from the large seam between the pump seal plate, it is your fault.

Adjustment:How to replace pool pump seals

Low packing


  • Large air bubbles in the cleaning basket
  • low water pressure
  • It takes longer to prime the pump

"Why am I putting air in my body?" The answer to this question always starts with checking the pump cover gasket. Unlike the other gaskets on this list, a damaged cover gasket causes a leak, not an explosion. A typical symptom of a damaged lid gasket is larger than normal bubbles in the filter chamber. Air leakage can also cause squeaks.

Adjustment:How to replace pool pump seals

diffuser joint


  • taber the first
  • low water pressure

This important but sometimes overlooked part, the diffuser and its gasket, increases the thrust of the motor and impeller, allowing the pump to be self-priming. A gasket, located at the end of the diffuser, seals the diffuser/impeller assembly to the front of the housing. The funnel-shaped diffuser is then able to focus energy from the rotor resistance and increase its resistance. This helps to flood and maintain water pressure.

Adjustment:How to replace pool pump seals

4.) Scooter


  • taber the first
  • low water pressure

The motor can do all the rotation, but the rotor does all the work. The rotor, bolted onto the end of the motor shaft, is a vented or splined disc. These oars act like the boat's propeller, pulling water in and then pushing it out. If the impeller is damaged, there will be little or no water flow. There may also be noise caused by debris from the rotor inside the housing.

Correction:How to replace a pool impeller

5.) diffuser


  • Low pressure
  • loss of primacy

The diffuser is a conical cap located above the impeller. Its main function is to concentrate the thrust of the impeller towards the pool to improve the water supply. A broken or cracked diffuser will have cracks that suck resistance from the impeller, lowering water pressure.

Adjustment:How to replace a pool pump diffuser

6.) You are short


  • big air bubbles
  • Light or fine lines
  • twisting

The filter cover is the most important visual inspection point on the pump. Simply put, this is where you check to see if the pump is working. Roofs become brittle over time and can crack or warp when exposed to excessive sunlight. Hairlines in the cap can cause suction air leakage, which slows down the system.

Adjustment: Replace the filter cover

7.) Sicurv


  • Rattle in the filter basket
  • clogged impeller
  • Ripped or damaged cartridges

The filter basket traps dirt before it reaches the inside of the pump. A broken basket can damage your pump or filter by letting out debris that can damage the impeller, diffuser or filter cartridges.

Adjustment: Replace the filter basket

8.) Housing


  • dry advice
  • Cracks form near doors or screw holes
  • visible wear

The casing, considered the body of the pump, contains all of the above parts. Pump casing failure is usually the result of obvious, long-term degradation of the pump. The sun is often the biggest culprit for home damage. A bomb that heats up in the summer months will leave your house petrified and crazed. Cracks will begin to appear around the stress points. The casing is the second most expensive part of the pump after the motor to replace. If it is necessary to replace the casing and some other parts, it is better to replace the entire pump. Read our previous blog on how to decide what to do about it:Pump or motor: to replace or not to replace... That is the question.


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